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H7 bulbs will be the right choice since I also upgraded in my Yamaha YZF-R125 09 few time back and it’s been a while, they are working fine. Thanks to this online store they listened by query and recommeded best H7 Bulb https://xenons4u.co.uk/h7-55w-super-white-xenon-effect-headlight-bulbs.html

Hi. I put a new member post on here the other day , but not sure what happened to it. Had 100+ bikes including an 1100 Virago in the past, currently have 2 Harleys, a XBR cafe racer, a CZ125, and a Virago 535 for my g/f. I has asked about a problem about poor running and fuel coming out the overflow for the front carb, but I fixed that yesterday. May have a query about the valve clearances and clutch later . Thanks, G

Ok folks just a quick question, I am thinking of putting a new set of rear view mirrors on the FJR, I would like to use some with the indicator built in but the ones I want to use are LCD and the ones on the bike (front fairing and rear) are bulbs, so my question is will it matter if I just bung them on and connect them or do I have to use anything else to make them work? I know it's a silly question but I am stumped as to whether it needs a controller in the circuit or not. Thanks folks.

Hi folks I have a 94' SR125 and think my CDI has died. I have tried various tests to get to this conclusion. The one I have removed is a 94' ignitor unit with code 5HO-MO, with 2x 4 pin connectors Looking on the usual sites for used replacements I can only find the post 96 ones with code 3MW and 1 x 2 pin connector and 1 x 4 pin connector. Has anyone used one of these units as a replacement? I can probably work out the connections with the manual and circuit diagram, but thought I would ask before buying one. Thanks in advance

Hi All, newbie here, I have bought a 98 Thunderace with 5000 miles on it, the bike is mint, runs and rides like a new bike, I noticed something different on the left hand crankcase whilst cleaning it, on the left hand crankcase (as you sit on the bike) there is a blind hole that mirrors one on the right hand side of the crankcase, the one on the right houses the oil pressure sensor, the one on the left oaccording to pictures in the manual is just a blind hole, however my bike has a bolt in it, like I say it runs perfect and doesn't cause me any concern, just noticed this bolt ???????????

does bolt number 16 at the very bottom of the fork outer actually hold some inside each fork or can it be used removed and used as a drain

Want to change from a standard pipes on my midnight star 1300 for noisy pipes but dont want to re map the engine. Does anyone know if I can get noisy pipes/exhausts that dont require the mapping the engine?

Hi guys, just got a couple of questions about my bike. The top end is apparently 700 miles old and pulls very strongly, but uses a wossner forged piston and slaps when cold until warmed. How long shall i leave it to warm up before riding? Also, after a 700 mile old rebuild would you guys say its ok to be doing/attempting wheelies, after warming up of course?

Quick question, which is the correct NGK plug for a 1987 SRX 400, DPR7EA9 or DPR8EA9?

Hey everyone, time has come to sell my bike, It's sat in the shed not doing alot and it could be someone elses pride and joy who will be able to give it some tlc and actually ride it. Anyway in it's current condition can anyone tell me how much I could sell it for? It's a 2005 plate, 5796 miles, (Been sorn off road for atleast 18 months) and only used to ride it to work a few miles away. 3 days a week. since then i've got a car lol (hense low mileage) I'm the only owner it's had from new. It's got a full DEP exhaust system. I have came off it once at low speed on some ice in the works car park hense the scratches on the rear RHS panel. Just had a full service and MOT, new break pads fr and rr, also tyres have only done about 200 miles at most. 12 Months MOT & 12 Months tax. Got a service history for when it has been on the road. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers Jas.

Hey Drewps I realise you have sorted your bike, but this thread http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/225198/2/t140-driveside-roller-bearing reminded me of your query. Page 2 especially gives a lot of details about bearings, most of which I did not know, so it may be useful to some

hi only just purchased my xj6 (abs) and as im waiting on getting my mod 2 sorted I haven't been out on it yet. my query is that on the frame by the forks is a sticker that says "power reduced by Yamaha 25kw!! ..now when I looked up the spec on my bike it says it should be 55.8kw...does this mean its been restricted?? before I get intouch with the guy ive purchased it off(he didn't say anything about it being restricted) I thought id post the question here to see what the crack is? thanks

I do not have any experience of this form, just had a quick look and you only have to fill in pages 1 & 2 which seems simple enough. Your query with HMRC though is the fact that you are not importing a complete vehicle just the frame, I would give them a call and speak to them about it.

Hi folks, first of what may be many questions as I try to resurrect my little imported 175. I have tried Yambits, Wemoto and CMS to no avail for the air filter element. I have the cage, if it is Indeed the right cage, but the filter itself was just some old sponge stuffed in the air box. Anyone know what would be compatible? The box is vaguely diamond shaped when looking in, and maybe 4 inches deep. Cheers Mark

Hey guys, love the forum. I was hoping someone would help me decode the vin on my bike. It's a DT 125, please raise this query in the classic, garage or offroad section. this is for introductions

Hi folks, would any of you part number experts be able to tell if 1UJ-21510-00-LG is the same part as 3FH-21510-00-OX ? Thanks

To all the DT owners out there: I have a Dt 125 Re and was wondering if the 3mb cylinder and head can be fitted to the bottom end from a dtr (89-03). I realise that yes it will fit, but the 2 bikes have different cdi units so i assume the stater (generator coil) must be different? If i did fit the 3mb cylinder and head to a dtr bottom end would i have to change the wiring? Or could i simply connect it all up and go? Also I wonder if the crankshafts are the same? Will i need to use a dtre crankshaft to fit the 3mb cylinder from a dtre, or are the crankshafts identical ? I am contemplating a dtr/dtre hybrid because my starter motor is dead, the generator coil is possibly also dead (intermittent spark) after it was rewound the second time! And on top of all of this i have a problem in the clutch mechanism itself which is nothing to do with the plates, and could prove to be expensive! Sourcing a new bottom end can cure all of my problems in one go! Any help would be appreciated

Hello everyone, I'm new to this form today, It looks like a terrific resource and many of the experienced and knowledgeable bikers that frequent this forum seem to be incredibly friendly, tolerant and willing to help everyone who comes by into their forums. It would be my ambition to contribute to this site actively myself in the future as it seems like a great community. In this sense I feel bad that my first contribution is actually a request for help, but I could sure use some right now. So I hope a few of you will be kind enough to read on and share some of your wisdom with me. The bike in questions is my Dragstar XVS (2000 model.) I will try to be concise with the facts: Before taking my bike out on a long run during the weekend I noticed that the slack on the chain was beyond the recommended limits. I set about adjusting the slack by following the user guide (I've done this once before by following the manual without any problems.) I'm not sure if it is an identical mechanic for every yamaha bike but for the XVS there are 'drive chain puller locknuts' on each end of the swingarm that are turned clockwise to tighten the chain. I loosened the brake pedal free play adjusting nut, the axle nut, and the drive chain puller locknuts at each end of the swingarm as per the instructions. The next step is to turn the 'Drive chain adjusting nut' on each side clockwise in order to tighten the slack in the chain. I turned each adjusting nut the by the same amount on each side of the swingarm in order to keep the rear wheel aligned, however it looked as though the adjustment was as far back as it was going to get (this would suggest that the chain is stretched out too far and needs replacing) however I foolishly gave a few more turns of the drive chain adjusting nut on the left side of the bike to see if I could get any extra tension out of the chain, it was then I heard a popping sound and knew I had stupidly wrecked something. I have uploaded 4 photos showing the damage I have done to do drive chain adjuster screw on one side of the bike, you can view the photos on imgur here: http://imgur.com/z5HxtbL&vjVoCQH&McSCpoo&Vm5GQdl#0 Please let me know if this is acceptable or if there is a way for me to insert them directly into my post which would be preferable. Image 1 shows the part of the remainder of the adjusting screw that I broke off (circled in green) you can see how remainder of the adjusting screw is held in place by the axel nut allowing the remainder to swing up and down a little (green arrows) Image 2 shows the piece of the adjusting screw that broke off (with drive chain puller locknut and adjusting nut still attached) Image 3 shows how the two pieces should be connected. Image 4 shows the other side of the swingarm that has everything 'as it should be' as I didn't break anything on that side. Due to the adjustment screw being broken there is nothing stopping the rear wheel from becoming misaligned and causing some serious trouble. There is a mechanic I know who could come collect the bike and fix my problems, but to be honest this whole thing (repairing the adjusting screw and fitting a new chain) is something I would really like to learn to do for myself as I hope to be replacing many a bike chain in my life time. I have tried searching for solutions about how to specifically make this repair to the bike but I haven't found anything in the owners manual or anything on the forum about this particular problem, would anyone be kind enough to shed some light on how I go about fixing this issue? Once I get this issue resolved I found a really good guide on how to replace the chain so I am hopeful that part won't be too troublesome, I have a few questions about it but would rather focus on resolving this one issue first. Any insight anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated, and thanks a ton for reading!

hey there, gear box has gone on my bike and i'm planning on switching out the engine, mines a 55 plate, will i have any issues if i use say a 2010 engine??? any help would be brilliant

Hello everyone, My dad and myself recently got a 1987 xv1100 to fix up togehter and turn into a bobber, but it was mostly dissassembled and we seem to be missing a few pieces I need to to know if we legitamatly need or can do without. We seem to be missing a piece called the "sub tank assembly" and we arent really sure what purpose this serves in the function of the engine and if we do in fact need it for it to operate. This is the first motorcycle I have had to work that is carbureted, so most of it is new to me. Any information you guys could provide would be a great help! Thank You!

Hi, sorry forgot I had even posted this query ... seems to be working with the user name rather than email Don't seem to be getting the notification emails for replies but no biggie. Thanks for the assist

Hi Ginger, this thread is 8 years old mate, unlikely that anyone from then will answer your query. Best to say Hi in the New members section then ask your question in the "general" area on the site. Old threads are usually for info only rarely used to ask questions as the folks may not be around anymore. Just sayin..!

Hi All, I have just bought a 2003 v-star (Dragstar) 650 and it came with slash cut pipes. Is the lack of back pressure bad for the bike? I was thinking of a homemade job, for example: 1: DIY Baffle http://www.650ccnd.c....xhaust_mod.pdf 2: DIY Thumb screw mod http://www.nightride...ech/exhaust.htm I read somewhere that as a consequence, the bike may burn lean and eventually destroy the engine. Something to do with rejetting? Any comments are welcome.

hey guys, i'm new to your little community you have here, and though i know its annoying for new guys to immediatly ask question about fixing their bikes you should know i'm from saskatchewan canada and we can only ride our bikes for a few months a year, so time is a factor. i have an old 1980ish 175 enduro, the oil light comes on in neautral (i'm told this is a test), but once i get it into gear it will sometimes flicker on and off. the oil reserve is full. sometimes as soon as i let off the throttle it will go off... its weird because it doesn't stay on while im in gear, but rather turns off and on sometimes... i love the old girl and use it for my daily rider so i'd hate to burn out a motor over something stupid. i'm wondering what could make this light turn on and off? wiring issue? or something to do with the oil system? should i be worried? i'm not driving it until i can get some info regarding the matter, as i opt for a cheap fix rather than a complete engine overhaul... i'm not really big on mechanics but i'm willing to learn. also, if you could be super specific with your answers it would help me alot, like i said i'm not much of a gearhead. please please gimme a prompt response, i wanna ride again! CB

Ive restored a 1981 yz125h and cant get it to run properly. It runs fine flat out at full throttle however it has no power and runs rough in the midrange and will not idle no matter how I ajust the idle and air screws. I have fully rebuilt the motor. Also can anyone tell me the slide and needle sizes thanks in advance bengo new member. PS its an Australian model with a 32mm mikuni carb.